English
It's like stepping back in time...
Introducing the deep back alleys and side streets of Tokushima!
The owners are full of humanity, and the bars are famous for their “Showa-era” atmosphere.
Tokushima has long had many alleyways and side streets where you can find unique shops with a “Showa-era atmosphere” and friendly shopkeepers not found in guidebooks or portal sites.
However, compared to the main streets, the complicated and intricate alleys have a kind of dubious atmosphere, making it difficult for first-time visitors to enter.
We would like to introduce you to some of Tokushima's deep back alleys and side streets, as well as some of the best bars we recommend.
*The "Showa-era" was the period of Japanese history between 1926 and 1989. The '60s, '70s and '80s are fondly remembered in Japan, and most people feel nostalgic about the Showa era, even those who didn't live through it.
Main alleys and side streets in the entertainment district
The narrow alleys and passages that connect the streets in Akita-machi, Sakae-machi, and Takajo-machi, Tokushima's most popular entertainment district, are the back alleys and side streets introduced here. The alleys are so narrow that people can hardly pass each other.
However, there are only two alleys with official names, "Chabashira-dori" and "Kouta-yokocho," and the others are just what I usually call them.
The following five streets are introduced: the two streets mentioned above, and the other 3 alleys are all with commonly known names. “Minami-Nakancho Ura-dori” in Akita-machi 1-chome, “Akita-machi Ura-dori” in Akita-machi 2-chome to the south of that street, and “Sakae-yokocho” which runs across the back side of Tokushima Shinkin Bank in Kon’ya-machi.
First, let’s go to the deepest alley “Chabashira-dori.”
“Chabashira rises (a tea stalk sticks out of the tea).” It is considered to be a good omen in Japan. The “Chabashira-dori,” which literally means “Tea Stalk Street,” is said to be named after this saying.
This “Chabashira-dori” is a narrow alley, less than 2 meters wide, located 50 meters between Sakae-machi and Takajo-machi streets, and is the most atmospheric back alley in this entertainment district.
I would like to introduce arecommended Japanese-style bar from this alley that I have been going to for about 30 years.
“Mawarimichi (Detour)”– a peaceful Showa-era bar run by a second-generation hostess
“Mawarimichi” was opened on Chabashira-dori more than 30 years ago by its first owner, and is now run by the second-generation proprietress, Atsuko Chikami.
The restaurant has a retro atmosphere, as if you have stepped back in time to the Showa-era. Normally, the restaurant is open with only 9 seats at the counter on the first floor, but if you make a reservation for a group, you can use the tatami room on the second floor.
You can enjoy many dishes which use Tokushima ingredients, such as "sashimi of yoko (bluefin tuna)" caught off the coast of Tokushima, "fried Awa-odori chicken," a local chicken, and "Handa nyumen" made of Handa somen noodles with warm broth to finish. It is recommended to drink shochu and sake together.
Mawarimichi
Opens: 6 – 11 pm (Last order: 11 pm)
Closed on Sunday
“Kouta-yokocho" crossing Sakae-machi from Takajo-machi
“Kouta-yokocho” catches the eye with its chic signage.
The name of the alley comes from the landlord of a tenement house, who was a master of kouta (Japanese ballad-type song accompanied by the shamisen, a three-stringed Japanese lute).
This Kouta-yokocho is a narrow alley, less than 2 meters wide, about 30 meters from Takajo-machi to Sakae-machi Street. I remember when this narrow alley used to be crowded with bars and restaurants.
The recommended diner on this street serves delicious “obanzai (meal with side dishes).”
“Sekihan”– an obanzai diner where you can enjoy delicious homemade food in platters.
A long-established small diner that has been operating in Kouta-yokocho for more than 30 years is “Sekihan,” run by an owner who was born in Misato (Yoshinogawa City).
The diner has only nine seats at the counter on the first floor. The platters on the counter are full of a variety of side dishes, such as simmeredfish, cooked vegetables, salads, and nikujaga (simmered meat and potatoes) cooked that day. It is so-called “obanzai” diner. The hostesswill also prepare other dishes on the spot upon request. I personally recommend the "Somen Champuru", which is Handa somen noodles stir-fried with vegetables.
Sekihan
Opens: 6 pm – 12 am
Closed on Sunday and national holiday
“Minami-Nakancho Ura-dori,” one street off the main street of Akita-machi 1-chome
The alley is located one street south of the main street in Akita-machi 1-chome. I call it “Minami-nakancho Ura-dori” because of its address.
This alley has also been around for a long time, and I remember when there were many bars lined up in an alley about 30 meters long.I pick up to introduce a nice smalldiner where you can taste delicious dishes from this alley.
“Chopstick”– a well-known diner run by a chef trained at a popular restaurant
This Japanese restaurant is run by Seiya Okawa, who trained at a popular restaurant in Tokushima before opening this place on his own. People often ask him why he started his new independent business in such a back alley.According to him, he liked the fact that it was a hidden place that was hard to find. At the same time, he said, he hoped that his customers would feel a sense of superiority by knowing that his restaurant was located in such a back alley.
The restaurant has a 10-seat counter on the first floor and two tatami rooms on the second floor (seating about 20 people in total), and is known for its delicious and creative cuisine, including sashimi of local fish and chicken tsukune (meatball).
Chopstick
Opens: 6 – 11 pm
Closed on Monday and national holiday
“Akita-machi Ura-dori,” one street off the main street of Akita-machi 2-chome
This alley is easier to understand if we call it the back alley of a street with a big karaoke shop.
This alley is another long-established alley, about 70 meters long, lined with old anglerfish hot pot specialty restaurant and obanzai diners.
My recommended place in this alley is a delicious “oden” diner.
“Oden Sakari”– a homey diner where a friendly hostess welcomes you
Sumiko Tanaka, a.k.a. Sumi-chan, the friendly, motherly owner, pours her heart and soul into her delicious oden dishes (oden is various ingredients such as eggs, vegetables, fishcakes, etc. simmered in Japanese broth).
The diner is quite popular and often filled to capacity, and you may not be able to find a seat in the early evening. The reason for its popularity is the homey atmosphere of the diner and the friendly character of the owner.
Although the restaurant is small, with only about 10 seats at the counter on the first floor, Sumi-chan is waiting for you with many types of oden, prepared with about 16 different kinds of ingredients.
Oden Sakari
Opens: 4 pm – 12 am
Closed on Monday and national holiday
“Sakae-yokocho,” which runs through Sakae-machi Street and behind ACTY21
The last one is an alley about 30 meters long that connects Sakae-machi 1-chome to the back street of ACTY21. It is easier to understand if you call it the street behind Tokushima Shinkin Bank in Konya-machi.
"Sakae-yokocho" (as I have taken the liberty of calling it) is another long-established alley lined with several bars/restaurants, starting with a pretty old yakitori restaurant at the entrance.
Let me introduce you to one of the best Western restaurants I recommend here in Sakae-yokocho.
Kitchen HIRO – a small restaurant run by a lady chef/owner.
This small restaurant has a stylish atmosphere with about 7 seats at the counter on the first floor and one tatami room in the back (accommodates about 6 people).
It is a Western-style restaurant with delicious Italian pasta that is run by the chef-owner Hiromi Tomioka, whose short hair suits her well.
The chef-owner, Hiromi, has trained at two famous Italian restaurants in Tokushima.
Kitchen HIRO
Opens: 7 pm – 1 am
Closed on Sunday and national holiday (except Friday and Saturday)
In the alleys and side streets of Tokushima, there are still many unique places with a Showa-era atmosphere, delicious eateries that do not appear in guidebooks or websites. You will find many friendly shopkeepers with a warm heart. To learn more, please visit the following website (currently in Japanese only).
Tokushima Uraroji Sakaba Tankyu-kai (Tokushima Back Alley Bars Search Club)
https://uraroji.net/
